Many people are surprised to hear this, but deer are actually very good swimmers.
Deer Swimming Abilities
Anatomy and Physical Features
Deer are well-adapted to moving through various terrains, including water.
They possess powerful leg muscles, which helps propel them.
Their body shape, which is sleek and streamlined, offers low resistance when swimming.
Their coats also consist of hollow hair shafts which provide insulation and buoyancy, trapping air and helping the animal stay afloat.
Reasons for Swimming
Finding Food and Mates
Deer are known to swim across rivers in search of food and mates.
It is common for deer, such as the European roe deer, to swim across the river multiple times a day, primarily in their quest for food or during the rutting season for mating purposes (source).
Escape from Predators
Swimming across rivers can be a means for deer to escape danger and predators. It is a survival strategy that helps them avoid being cornered or trapped by a predator on land.
They can use this skill to their advantage, crossing rivers or other bodies of water when faced with potential threats.
Crossing Habitats
Deer are not limited by water barriers and can freely move between different habitats. Crossing rivers allows them to navigate and access various terrain to better their chances of finding food, shelter, and mates.
This behaviour is essential for their survival as it enables them to adapt to changing conditions in the environment.
Fawns and Baby Deer
Fawns, or baby deer, are also capable of swimming, even at a very young age. Just like adult deer, fawns will instinctively swim when they find themselves in a body of water, utilising their strong instincts to navigate through the aquatic environment.
However, it is important to note that fawns may not be as skilled or experienced as adult deer in terms of swimming behaviour.
They may tire more quickly, be more affected by the current, and struggle more with maintaining their direction.
As a result, it is essential for fawns to remain close to their mothers when swimming across rivers.
Notable Deer Species and Swimming
Chinese Water Deer
The Chinese Water Deer is an interesting species that displays unique features such as tusks and strong swimming abilities.
These deer are native to China and have been introduced to the UK, where they have adapted well to various habitats, including rivers and wetlands.
Despite being relatively smaller in size, Chinese Water Deer are remarkably good swimmers.
They are capable of swimming across rivers, allowing them to navigate through their wetland habitats.
Their most distinguishing feature is their tusks, which are elongated upper canines used for defense and territorial disputes.
Korean Water Deer
The Korean Water Deer is another species known for its swimming capabilities and distinctive tusks.
Found primarily in wooded areas of South Korea and China, this deer species also relies on its swimming skills to thrive in their natural environments, including rivers.
Similar to its Chinese counterpart, the Korean Water Deer boasts elongated upper canine teeth for defense against predators and other threats.
Water Currents and Temperature
One of the primary challenges deer encounter while swimming is the varying water currents in rivers.
Swift currents can make it difficult for deer to maintain their balance and direction, potentially leading them away from their intended destination.
For instance, rivers such as the Mississippi and St. Lawrence in Canada have strong currents that can pose a significant threat to deer.
In order to overcome this challenge, deer have adapted to streamline their bodies and manoeuvre through the water with minimal resistance.
Their slim build and agile nature help reduce drag, allowing them to navigate strong currents more effectively.
Temperature is another important factor affecting deer when swimming across rivers.
In cold temperatures, deer can become exhausted and may struggle to reach the other side of the river, exposing them to the risk of hypothermia.
To combat this, deer have developed fur that provides insulation against the cold and helps maintain their body temperature.
Predator Presence in Water
Predators such as alligators, crocodiles, and large fish can pose a significant threat to deer swimming in rivers.
Additionally, predators on land may use the opportunity of deer crossing rivers to launch surprise attacks while they are at their most vulnerable.
Their ability to swim quietly and quickly helps them evade predators, as well as their keen hearing and sense of smell.
Summary
Deer face a variety of challenges when swimming across rivers, including water currents, temperature variations, and predator presence.
Despite these obstacles, they have developed remarkable adaptations to enhance their swimming skills and protect themselves in these situations.
Deer are considered good swimmers. Although they are not primarily adapted for an aquatic environment, their anatomical features enable them to cross rivers and other water bodies when necessary.
Their powerful, long legs, and streamlined body shape are the key factors that contribute to their swimming capabilities.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can deer swim in cold water?
Yes, deer are capable of swimming in cold water, as their thick fur provides insulation against the temperature.
However, they may avoid swimming in extremely cold conditions as it can be more challenging and energy-consuming.
How long can deer swim?
Deer can swim for varying durations depending on factors like their age, health, and stamina.
They have been observed swimming for several minutes to cross rivers or lakes.
Although there isn’t a specific time limit, deer can swim long enough to reach safety or travel to different areas if needed.
Can deer swim long distances?
Yes, deer are strong swimmers and can cover significant distances while swimming. They have been known to cross rivers or lakes in search of food, mates, or to avoid predators.
The actual distance they can swim depends on factors like the current, water temperature, and the individual deer’s health and stamina.
How fast can deer swim?
The speed at which deer swim might not be as fast as their running speed on land, but it is still quite impressive.
They can maintain a steady pace while swimming, powerful enough to cross rivers or other bodies of water efficiently.
The exact speed is difficult to measure, but it is sufficient for their needs in the wild.
Can baby deer swim?
Yes, baby deer, or fawns, can swim even at a young age. They may not be as fast or strong as adult deer but can still manoeuvre through water effectively.
Fawns usually stay close to their mothers and follow them as they cross bodies of water.
Are deer good swimmers in deep water?
Deer are generally good swimmers and can handle deep water. Their powerful legs and streamlined bodies allow them to move with ease in the water.
However, they prefer not to spend more time in deep water than necessary, as it may pose increased risks from predators or exhaustion.
When all 3 elements of the fire triangle combine what can occur?
Well, if you have the correct proportion of heat, fuel and oxygen present and you have a source of ignition, such as a spark, or flame – then you have a good chance that a fire will start, as it has all the required elements.
This could be a good thing if you are looking to start a fire…It could also be a very bad thing if you are not.
Always be mindful of potential ignition sources and keep things such as tinder and stored wood well away from anything that could ignite it.
What are the Three Parts of the Fire Triangle?
The three parts of the fire triangle are heat, fuel and oxygen.
Most of us will be aware of the fire triangle from those school science lessons.
However, it is worth briefly going over again though, to reinforce its importance when lighting a fire in the field.
Let’s take a look at each of the 3 components.
1.Heat
The fuel needs heat in order for it to release its combustible vapours, which in turn, ignite from a flame or spark.
This heat also dries out the surrounding material, causing that to release combustible vapours also and is how a fire spreads and takes hold.
This is why a wood fire will start slowly at first but start to blaze, once the correct conditions for it to do so are met.
2.Fuel
A fire needs fuel to burn. This is pretty obvious, but the type of fuel needs to be considered.
The most common fuel that we use in bushcraft is wood, as it is freely available and for the most part, sustainable.
You can’t usually just set fire to a large log though, as you need to build the fire up in stages.
To light an all-wood fire, we generally need 3 grades of wood fuel:
Tinder: This takes your ignition source and transforms it into a flame or ember.
Kindling: These are small pieces of wood that have either been collected in that state, ie small twigs or that have been chopped down to size from a larger log.
Main fuel: Anything larger than kindling – usually large branches and logs that are dry and form the main fuel source.
3.Oxygen
A fire requires 16% oxygen to burn.
Oxygen acts as the oxidising agent for the chemical reaction that produces the flame.
A flame will not form without it.
Therefore, oxygen is vital to the success of a fire.
Fresh air contains approximately 21% oxygen, depending on your altitude.
Therefore, as long as you maintain a good supply of fresh air to the fire, it should continue to burn, as long as the other conditions are met.
Elements to create fire
Without all 3 parts of the triangle present, you will not achieve a sustained fire.
If you have fuel and fresh air for example, but not enough heat to ignite and sustain it, your fire will go out.
Equally, if you have heat and fresh air, with wet fuel, such as very damp wood – your fire will not start.
The fuel element has not been satisfied and the triangle implodes.
An example of not meeting the oxygen requirement would be that you load too much fuel onto the fire, too quickly, in which case you smother the flames and kill off the airflow.
To be successful, you need to keep all 3 elements in balance, ensuring a sustained and controlled fire for you to warm yourself and cook with.
Keeping all 3 parts in mind will ensure greater success.
The video below from Coalcracker Bushcraft explains this visually:
What are the 3 stages of a fire?
Generally speaking, a fire has 3 stages:
Growth stage: when the fire is building and gathering heat and voracity. In this stage, the fire is very much dependent on the oxygen and fuel supply that it has.
Fully developed: this is the stage when the fire has reached its peak and is now giving out a good amount of heat.
You should also have a good bed of embers now to keep the fire sustained.
Decay: once you stop feeding the fire with fuel, the fire will enter the decay stage and start to burn down.
The embers are still extremely hot at this stage though and will likely ignite any fresh fuel that you put on.
If left alone, however, the fire will die out on its own.
Summary
The fire triangle is a very simple concept, but quite often forgotten about when trying to get a fire lit.
Next time you do light a fire, try and bear all the elements in mind and you should have more success
Want more??? We have loads more articles for you to read in our fire section here.
Below, we have compiled a bushcraft gear list detailing the top equipment that is currently on the market.
Unless you want to do the whole ‘naked and marooned‘ approach, you will need to take some gear with you.
With that in mind, we thought it would be helpful to create a list of what we would recommend kit wise.
As you will see, we haven’t gone for cheap rubbish here! We are firm believers in always buying the best you can afford.
Good kit will last you many years, even a lifetime, and is usually worth the extra few bucks.
You will end up with good quality gear, that is usually better to use – and if you ever want to sell it on, there is usually a market for the decent items.
This can’t always be said for some of the cheap rubbish that you see peddled out there.
Go for the best and build your kit up slowly. It will be worth it in the long run.
Anyway, on to the gear…
Trousers (Pants)
Classic (but pricey) bushcraft trousers
If you want the best bushcraft trousers out there (or best pants if you’re over the pond), then the Fjallraven Vidda Pro are one of the best options available.
There’s no shortage of people using these, but for a very good reason though…they’re solid trousers and made for the job.
Designed in Sweden, Fjallraven has an excellent reputation for quality – and if you go for these trousers you will not be disappointed.
Fjallraven Vidda Pro video
They aren’t cheap and are by no means completely necessary, however, we consider it an investment worth making if you are serious about your gear and overall comfort.
For a daysack, this may be a little on the big side, but if you are out for an overnighter or multi-day trip, then it’s not hard to fill up a bag like this with all your kit.
A good set of boots are essential for ankle support and comfort and another critical item on your bushcraft gear list.
If you are active around camp or hiking – you need some sturdy boots.
Investing in a good set from the start is money well spent.
Make sure you allow some time to wear them in though before going on any extended trips.
There are a few good makes, however, one of the notable ones is Hanwag, with their Tatra Top GTX boot being extremely comfortable for all manner of outdoor activities.
If you do go for a set of these, make sure you get the wide option if you have medium-wide feet, as the standard fit is quite slim around the toe area.
If you want a low-tech, reliable stove, then a meths burner may be a good fit for you.
They are super simple and just work.
The two contenders are the Trangia and the Esbit burner. The Esbit is slightly more user-friendly than the Trangia as it has a small handle to operate the simmer ring.
However, the Trangia is slightly better built and is, therefore, our burner of choice.
Using a bivvy bag is a great way to help keep you and your kit dry
Using a bivvy bag is a great idea if you are sleeping out. They provide you with some extra protection from the elements, increasing your chances of a good night’s sleep.
They can, of course, be used on their own, with your sleeping bag inside, using the bivvy as your sole outer protection.
This is great for sleeping out under the stars, in good conditions.
They are also great when used in conjunction with a tarp or basha – which is the preferred method if you are expecting rain or snow.
This can be done straight on the ground, or in a hammock setup.
You may even want to use one inside a tent, affording you a bit extra warmth when needed.
Most are breathable and waterproof, but the quality does vary.
British Army Bivvy Bag
One of our favourites is the no-nonsense, British Army Gore-tex bivvy bag that is pictured above.
As with most equipment designed for the military, these are solidly made with fully taped seams and a drawstring hood section.
They are heavy compared to others, but this is made up for by the excellent, bomb-proof quality that they afford.
They will last you for years.
There is no zip on these, so you have to slide in and out, but on a plus point, this means there is less to go wrong.
As they are made with Gore-tex, they are relatively breathable, while still providing a good degree of all round water protection.
They are designed to be used underneath a tarp as the hood does not completely cover you, but you can sleep out in them on their own if the weather is dry.
If it does start to rain though, you can always roll over and sleep on your front if necessary.
The only problem is that these bags are not easy to come across these days, especially new.
If you can get one though, we would recommend them for a heavy-duty bag.
Due to the sourcing problem, we will recommend another which is more widely available, this being the Snugpak Special Forces Bivvi Bag.
Snugpak Special Forces Bivvi Bag
These are not Gore-tex, but do incorporate Snugpak’s Paratex Dry Fabric, which is designed to do a similar thing, in that it allows moisture from your body to escape, while not letting any outside moisture in.
They feature a central zip, which helps with getting in and out of them, as well as being very lightweight and packable.
Some users find that they get a condensation build-up in these bags, but this will depend on the conditions and sleeping bag used etc.
They are ultimately, a well-made bivvy bag for a reasonable price – that you can actually get hold of!
A hammock is a great way of sleeping off ground, keeping you away from the cold floor as well as any bugs or other creatures that might be crawling around camp.
They take a bit of getting used to at first, but once you learn how to sleep in them they are a great way to camp out, assuming you have something to tie them to of course.
Two decent trees are ideal, but anything that will provide a strong anchor point will do.
The fact that they can be packed away into a small stuff sack or similar makes them a great addition to your portable sleeping system.
One of the best out there for the price is the DD frontline, which includes a bug net and has proven itself all over the globe.
Obtaining clean drinking water is a must. You do not want to be getting ill.
There are a number of options for purifying water, including boiling, sterilization and filtration.
Water purification tablets are one option, but they do leave a bit of a taste in the water. The Katadyn tablets are one of the best if you do go down this route.
Boiling is another option but does require you to have a heat source, which is not something you are able to do – or have time for.
The modern water filters are one of the simplest and convenient options.
You can go for the bag type such as the Platypus Gravityworks, which is a good choice for around camp, but if you want something a bit more portable, then the Sawyer mini below is a great choice.
Sawyer Mini Water Filtration System
The Sawyer Mini Filtration System is a multi-functional water filter that is lightweight and easy to carry.
It can be used with the squeeze pouch that is provided, with your own bottle or bag – or placed on your hydration bladder hose, to filter water on the go.
The filter unit can be cleaned out and reused, so should last you for a good while indeed.
The units are USA made and a great price for what you get.
A good set of binoculars (sometimes known as binos) are a great asset to have with you.
They let you scan areas in the distance with ease and come into their own when wildlife spotting or during hunting activities.
It’s not just the size that matters!
The optics are the most important part of the binoculars, far more than the actual size of them.
A smaller, but higher-quality set, will let in far more light and be far sharper visually than a lower quality, larger set.
It, therefore, pays to invest in great optics, especially if you are using for hunting etc in low light conditions.
Binoculars are one of those items that you really notice the extra quality on, so it pays to spend a bit on them if image quality and light gathering matter to you.
In low light, such as dusk, a good set will pick out the animal or object long after a bad set will, which can make all the difference to your day or hunt.
Once you have decided on a good brand for optics, then size plays into it.
Size selection will depend on whether you want an ultra-compact pair or are happy to lug around something a bit chunkier.
For a good all-round pair, that will work well in woodland and out on the open hill, a set of 8 x 42’s are a great choice.
There are a variety of good makes to choose from, including Zeiss, Swarovski, Kahles, Steiner etc, all of which are a great choice.
Our current favourites are the Leica Trinovid HD 8×42, which are German made and top-quality.
Like the others, they cost a bit to purchase, but presuming you don’t lose them, should last you a lifetime.
The Thermarest ProLite Plus mat is designed to be compact and lightweight, while still providing a decent amount of comfort for the user.
Weighing in at just 670g in the regular size, this is a lightweight mat – that is suitable for many uses – when space and more importantly, weight, are at a premium.
My personal reason for buying this is for backpacking and canoe/kayaking trips.
Time will tell how this performs, but first impressions are very good.
How it looks and feels
On opening the packaging, this does indeed feel like a quality product – and so it should at the price of around £80.
The materials feel good quality and durable, considering the mat’s lightweight properties.
When packed up, inside its stuff sack, the size is certainly compact for this type of mat, which helps when space is at a premium.
Where is it made?
The mat that I purchased, is made at Therm-A-rest’s EU factory, which is located in County Cork, Ireland.
This is good to see, with so many products being produced in China these days, it’s nice to see something made in Europe like this.
My only slight disappointment was that the stuff sack is made in China.
This is not the end of the world, but I do think you should keep it consistent, especially when one of the main selling points is the mat’s EU origin.
I would like to see all the components made in the EU.
Never mind….
Therm-A-Rest also produce their mats in their US factory – to serve the North American market.
This is their original and main factory, and where your mat will be made if you are buying over the pond.
However, as I purchased this in the UK, we get the European made version, which should be equally as good. If not better 🙂
What’s inside the bag?
Asides from the mat itself, there are also a set of instructions included.
Upon taking the mat out of the stuff sack for the first time, you will find it wrapped in a clear plastic sleeve.
Remove this and you will be able to unfold the mat.
As the mat has been in storage in this compressed position, you will probably find that it is a bit reluctant to actually ‘self inflate’ at the beginning.
I actually thought that something was wrong with mine the first time I used it.
Unfold the mat and lay it out on a flat surface.
Open the valve and you should see it at least inflate partially, but the first time you may not see any movement at all.
Self-inflating process
The reason the mat will start (hopefully) to self inflate, is that the memory foam has been compressed and will try to return to its original shape when unrolled – and with the valve open.
In doing so it expands and in turn pulls in air from outside, which inflates the mat.
This self-inflating process will only inflate the mat to a certain point.
To get the mat to a usable point, you will need to put in some extra air by blowing it up yourself.
Place your mouth over the valve and put in some good puffs. You will need to do this a few times until it is full.
There isn’t a non-return valve on this type of mat, so you have to be quick with your last breath.
At the last moment, turn the cap in one motion, in order to seal the air in.
Once this is done, you are good to go. It’s very simple!
Packing the sleeping mat away
Deflating and packing away the mat is almost the reverse of the inflation process.
The main difference is that Therm-A-Rest recommends that you squeeze the air out of the mat first, by opening the valve and folding the mat up in half and then in half again, towards the valve end.
Once this stage is complete:
close the valve again and unfold the mat – most of the air will now be out.
fold the mat in half, length-ways, and tightly roll up from the bottom.
once you get near to the top, open the valve to expel any further air that has been pushed up.
roll all the way up and then close the valve again.
the mat will hold its folded shape and you can now place the mat back in the cloth bag.
Video run-through
A video of the inflation/deflation/storage process is below.
However, note that the ProLite Plus will require folding lengthways first before rolling up, as the stuff sack is smaller than the one in the video.
Comfort
I’m 6ft 2”, with fairly wide shoulders and this does feel quite slim underneath, compared to other full-size mats I have used.
However, I went for the regular size, as I wanted to try and strike a balance between comfort and trying to keep the weight down.
I tend to sleep on my side, and this feels comfortable for that, with a good layer of padding under my body, providing a good level of support.
Even when lying on my back, it still feels good – although a little slim.
I also haven’t noticed too much of a sweaty back when sleeping on this mat, which is a good thing. Some mats can be bad for this.
It’s just my arms that are not on the mat and lay to the side of it, which is not too much of a problem – I can sleep like this.
If you go for the larger version, it is another 12cm wide (5”), so it would be more suited to bigger persons, but does come in at an additional 210g, at 880g.
Not too much of a problem if you’re not concerned with weight, but it all matters if you are trying to minimize what you have to carry.
Your requirements
If you are buying this mat, then you are probably doing so based on weight, over outright comfort.
As ever, it is about trying to balance this comfort with what you plan to do.
I would say the regular size is a good compromise for most larger adults, but go with what you feel is best for you.
However, it must be remembered that this is designed to be a lightweight mat and if ultimate comfort is your goal, I would look at a different mat.
Something like the Thermarest Basecamp would be the one to go for, but they are a lot bulkier.
Printed logo on mat
Where you can use it
You can use this mat in a variety of applications.
In a tent, inside a bivvy bag, a hammock or just straight up on the floor.
It’s suitable for inside or outside use.
Place your sleeping bag on top and away you go – it’s as simple as that!
Long-term storage of your mat
Therm-A-Rest recommends that you store the mat in its inflated state when not in use.
If you do this, you will need to find a suitable place to do so, down the side of the wardrobe or similar.
This is presuming your other half will let you.
Storing the mat in this way will keep it in optimum condition, as the memory foam will be fully expanded, ready for your next trip.
ProLite Plus Specification
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Summary
This is a great mat, that’s lightweight, while still providing enough cushioning for you to sleep comfortably.
The fact that this is so packable means you can take in on almost any trip and still enjoy a good night’s sleep – without lugging around a hefty and bulky mat to do so.
I wish they did it in a green option, but I do actually quite like the red all the same.
If you are after a lightweight mat, that you can easily carry, then I think this is a great addition to your kit and would definitely recommend it.
Thanks for reading.
James
Bushcraft Hub
P.S. – please leave your comments and thoughts in the section below – it keeps us on the right track and ensures we are giving you the best content.
This ensures that the quality and specification of their ‘mil-spec’ cord meets the Department of Defence’s strict paracord requirements, MIL-C-5040H.
These requirements stipulate what raw materials must be used, down to the exact construction method required.
This paracord is called MIL-C-5040, commonly known as Mil-Spec.
Mil-spec is manufactured in different strength ratings, but 550 (type III) is the most popular, this being 550 pounds in strength.
[table id=1 /]
Most paracord that you see on the market claims to be ‘mil-spec’.
However, unless it has been made in the USA, to the requirements of MIL-C-5040H, by an approved government supplier, it is not mil-spec.
It is vital therefore that if you are after real paracord, that you purchase it from a reputable supplier.
It is also worth knowing that mil-spec cord will have a coloured strand inside, that is unique to the manufacturer.
This is known as the Manufacturer ID Marker.
The purpose of this is to essentially provide traceability so that the end-user (military) can identify which manufacturer produced the cord, should there be any issues in use.
This presence of this identifier is another way that you can tell if your paracord is mil-spec or not.
The most popular strength mil-spec paracord will be the type III, 550 class.
This is the most commonly available and provides great functionality.
Mil-C-5040H type III specifications:
Approx diameter: 3.8 mm
Weight: 6.6 g per metre
Certified minimum tensile strength: 550 lbs / 249 kg
100% high-quality nylon yarns
Sheath structure: 32 Strands
7 core strands, each made up of a further 3 twisted strands
Rope Construction: kernmantle
Unique manufacturer ID marker inside the cord
Commercial 550 paracord
In addition to their mil-spec cord, US Government approved manufacturers will also usually manufacture a commercial version.
This is known as 550 Type III – commercial spec.
This is almost identical to the mil-spec, but with some subtle differences.
It still consists of 7 core strands, as per the military-grade version, and has the same strength rating, it just differs in its construction.
Instead of using 3 intertwined strands per core strand, as the mil-spec does, commercial-grade 550 uses 2 intertwined strands, per core strand.
It also does not have the internal colour coded core (Unique Manufacturer ID Marker) that the mil-spec does.
Although it varies slightly in its design, it is as strong as the equivalent mil-spec version and a great alternative, should it be made by a reputable supplier as above.
Commercial 550 type III Specifications:
Approximate diameter: 3.8 mm
Weight: 6.6 g per metre
Certified minimum tensile strength: 550 lbs / 249 kg
100% high-quality nylon yarns
Sheath structure: 32 Strands
7 core strands, each made up of 2 twisted strands
Rope construction: kernmantle
[table id=2 /]
For those looking for genuine paracord for bushcraft or survival purposes, the above (and their strength variations) are the only 2 real options.
Safety
Although it is extremely strong, paracord is not to be used for climbing activities or similar.
The 550 lb / 249 kg rating (assuming you are using 550 cord) is its ‘static load’ rating.
This essentially means a load that is not moving and stable.
When climbing, you are placing what is known as a ‘working load’ on the rope.
This will likely be much, much higher than your actual body weight in a static situation, due to the movement and shock load placed upon the rope.
There is also likely to be abrasion from the rope touching rocks etc under tension.
Serious injury or death could occur, so do not use paracord for this purpose, or anything similar.
Summary
Paracord is essential bushcraft equipment, that has a multitude of uses.
If you are serious about your equipment and want the best out there, go for the ‘real deal’, genuine US made paracord, that has been manufactured by a US Department of Defense approved supplier.
Unless you specifically need a certain type of cord, the two main options are:
550 type III mil-spec or
550 type III commercial-spec.
Mil-spec is more expensive, but this is the exact cord that the US military gets and is, therefore, more expensive to produce, due to the manufacturing requirements.
If you opt for 550 Type III commercial-spec, you are getting an almost identical cord to the mil-spec above but made for commercial use.
Just make sure it is from a supplier who also supplies the military.
The commercial is usually sold at a more competitive price.
Either of these two cords will serve you well.
We use and recommend Clutha paracord. This is US-sourced, from a reputable and US Department of Defense approved supplier.
Although it is generally preferable to cook on an open fire, there are times when you will want, or indeed need, some form of bushcraft stove.
Fast and reliable, they will get things cooking in minutes.
So what’s available?
Wood burning camp stoves
If you can’t have an open fire due to it not being practical, or perhaps they are prohibited at your location, then you may be able to use a wood-burning camping stove.
The box type wood stoves feature a series of sections that slot together, allowing for different configurations, providing a solid base and pot support.
A popular choice is the Honey Stove which is made by Backpacking Light.
The Honey Stove consists of multiple pieces that can be constructed in a variety of fashions.
You can alter this depending on what you are cooking/boiling and what fuel you are using.
This stove allows for many fuel types including dry leaves, grass, wood, hexamine blocks, to name a few.
It can also incorporate a meths burner (Trangia type) and will even utilise an Optimus Nova burner if required.
All in all, it’s a very versatile choice for bushcraft activities.
These stoves fold down to a very compact size and are therefore ideal for transportation.
Similar alternatives to the Honey Stove include the Firebox or BushBox XL.
As you can see in the diagram, the airflow process effectively fans the flames, similar to when you blow on a fire to get it roaring.
This creates a hotter, cleaner burn, and also helps to reduce soot build-up.
The above process will begin to happen once the fire in the main compartment has warmed the stove up to operating temperature.
Wood stove round-up
Whether you opt for the box or wood gas type, these stoves are very popular and have very little to go wrong.
They are therefore a great choice if you are looking for a no-nonsense stove, that should last for many years.
The fact that most can also incorporate other fuels, such as meths or hexy blocks, is an added bonus and further increases their versatility in the field.
The main consideration on which type to go for would be transportation.
If you want one that can fold away into a flat package, the box type is probably your best bet.
They take a little assembling, and they can be a little frustrating to put together at times, but once together, they are solid.
If portability isn’t your primary concern and you are happy with a fixed unit, the wood gas type is a great option.
Theseare already good to go, so are great from a time perspective, but do not fully pack down.
Your choice will ultimately boil down to space and your trip length.
Related FAQs
What is a Solostove?
A Solostove is a type of wood gas stove that is cylindrical in design and incorporates a jacket, so that cold air can be drawn upwards from the bottom of the stove, warmed by the flames and then delivered to the top of the stove where it fans the flame and produces a hotter burn.
See the image above for a visual description.
What is a twig stove?
A twig stove is a type of camping/outdoor stove that uses natural materials, such as dry twigs, leaves, pine cones, pine needles etc.
These stoves are a great option if you have a reliable supply of fuel as they can be run on free to find materials.
Additionally, some models allow you to incorporate a basic burner, such as a Trangia or you can just use a basic hexy block. See above for more on these.
Sometimes known as an alcohol or spirit burner, this style of stove is another simple option for bushcraft activities.
They are generally known as Trangias, although this is a brand name and they are not all made by Trangia.
These stoves are small in design, lightweight and portable.
You will need some form of pot support as well, as these will not generally work with a pot placed directly on them.
However, there are many options available.
How does a Trangia work?
These burners all work on the same principle, in that you partially fill the main central chamber with fuel, then light it.
The main chamber will slowly burn (sometimes it’s very hard to see) and heat up the stove and fuel.
Once it is up to operating temperature, the fuel that is in the outside chamber, starts to vapourise.
This vapour then rises up to the small pinprick vents at the top, where it combusts.
This is often referred to as ‘blooming’ and means the burner is now ready to cook on.
Trangia spirit burner
The Trangia Spirit Burner pictured above is the best known and most widely used meth/alcohol burner out there.
Low cost, virtually indestructible and brilliantly simple in its design, this is a fantastic, relatively lightweight stove, with a multitude of applications.
Designed back in 1951, at Trangia’s headquarters in Sweden, not much has changed.
It is made of brass, with a weight of 110g and consists of the main burner unit, screw-on lid and a simmer ring.
The simmer ring’s design allows the flame to be regulated and also allows you to extinguish the burner completely when finished.
The stove is designed to run on methylated spirits (denatured alcohol). This fuel can be obtained very cheaply from your local hardware store.
It is worth noting that this burner can be used on its own if it is placed in a sheltered depression and your cooking vessel suspended above.
In general, though, the spirit burner is designed to be used inside a cooking system.
This shares the same chemical structure as butane but delivers higher pressure, which increases flame performance.
If you want to read more about gas stove fuel options see the MSR article here.
Modern gas stoves may struggle at extreme altitudes, but for most applications, they will operate absolutely fine.
Due to the above, these stoves are slowly becoming the choice of professional mountaineers.
This is due to their simplicity and the fact that they are generally more lightweight and safer in use than liquid fuel options.
Fuel availability
One thing with gas stoves is that you do need to have the correct gas canister cartridge for your stove.
You also need to be able to find these fairly easily should you need to get replacements.
This is not usually a problem in more developed parts of the world, but may be an issue in more remote regions.,
Make sure to check this before setting off if you are likely to need more.
How does a camping stove work?
In general, most gas stoves simply require you to:
attach the gas canister by screwing it onto the burner (clockwise)
deploy the pan and stove supports (if any)
turn on gas by opening the valve
ignite
Simplicity!
Some stoves even feature an integrated piezo ignition, which ignites the gas for you when you turn on the gas.
This is a handy feature to have.
However, even if your stove has this, you should always carry an alternative form of ignition.
This could be a ferro rod or lighter, in case the piezo ignition fails for whatever reason.
Top-mounted canister stoves
This is the most common type (see picture above). The gas canister screws onto the bottom of the burner and acts as the stove’s base.
Because of this, top-mounted stoves require a very stable and level surface to place the complete unit on.
This style of stove set-up often becomes top-heavy.
This is especially true if you have a lot of liquid in the cooking vessel that might slosh from side to side.
This sloshing can then end up tipping the stove over, including your food.
It is therefore important to site the stove correctly in the first place, on a flat, level surface.
Be vigilant of any gusts of wind that might have your pot toppling.
You also need to guard against you or your companions knocking into it.
Although the above is a bit of a drawback with this style, the fact that they are simple and generally cheaper than other designs, makes them a popular and solid choice for your bushcraft cooking needs.
This style of gas stove is by far the most stable, due to the burner being much lower to the ground and having a set of wide legs for stabilisation and support.
The gas canister is attached to a hose that allows the canister to sit to one side, adjacent to the burner.
However, due to the additional materials used, they are generally a little more expensive to buy than the top-mounted style.
Other than that, they generally operate in much the same way as top–mounted stoves.
Liquid fuel stoves generally cost more than their gas-fired cousins.
They also usually weigh more and involve a bit more effort in their operation.
With this in mind, why would you choose to opt for liquid fuel over the more common gas cartridge type?
What are the advantages of a liquid fuel stove?
In most cases, it chiefly centers around the fuel that you can obtain.
If you are operating in remote locations, for extended periods, a liquid fuel stove may be the better option over gas or other types.
The reason for this is that gas canisters are not always readily available should you run out.
They are usually stocked in outdoor shops and available online.
However, if you are out of area and certainly if you are in a different country, you may not be able to come across them quite so easily.
You can obviously bring 1 or 2 in your pack when you are on shorter outings.
For extended trips though, such as expeditions etc, you need to be mindful of how much fuel you are likely to use.
It is likely that you will find that you do not have the room to be taking heaps of gas canisters with you.
Added to this, once used, empty gas canisters need to be brought out with you and disposed of responsibly.
This creates additional dead weight and space that you will have to carry out with you.
Here lies the advantage of liquid fuel stoves!
In most places around the world, you can find some form of fuel to use in your stove.
Available fuels
Most liquid fuel stoves burn a variety of fuels, that are readily available across the globe, so you should never (hopefully) find yourself without a fuel source.
These include – white gas (also known as Coleman Fuel), petrol (auto gasoline), kerosene, diesel and more.
If you are travelling by vehicle, an additional benefit is that the stove can share the same fuel as the vehicle.
This can simplify things by eliminating the need for additional fuel storage.
How much fuel should you carry for your trip? Check out this MSR article here.
Economy
Because they can run on standard unleaded petrol or in some cases diesel and other fuels, they tend to be more cost-effective, when compared to resealable gas canisters.
This is especially true if you are on an extended trip.
This needs to be balanced with the fact that they are usually more costly to buy.
However, over the lifetime of the stove, this difference is negligible.
Safety procedures for using a liquid fuel stove
There are safety considerations to take on board when using liquid fuel stoves.
You have a bottle of extremely flammable liquid, usually petrol or similar, a few inches away from a roaring burner.
This sounds worse than it actually is, as the stove is obviously designed to operate this way and is safe as long as you use it sensibly.
One of the big things to remember is to wipe everything down after filling the fuel bottle, as you will no doubt spill a small amount whilst doing this.
Tip – It sounds obvious, but do not fill the bottle over its max fill line.
If you do, when you go to insert the pump, it will spurt out fuel all over your hands and the bottle, as the fuel pump takes up quite a bit of volume.
Only operate the stove once the stove is properly connected and you are sure there is no fuel residue left on the outside.
Can you use a camping stove inside a tent?
As with any stove, only use in a well-ventilated area. It’s not a great idea to use stoves inside of tents.
Apart from the obvious reason of potentially burning the tent down, you can get carbon monoxide poisoning too.
Follow the instructions and use some common sense and you won’t go too far wrong.
Remember, gas and other stoves are potentially hazardous too.
How to use a liquid fuel stove
One thing to note is that liquid fuel stoves require priming before they will work.
This means that a small amount of fuel is pumped into the stove and burnt off before it can be used properly.
The main purpose of priming is to heat up the section of metal tube that sits over the top of the burner.
This is known as the Generator Tube.
This is what fuel passes through before it reaches the burner. Once this is warm, it transfers heat to the fuel passing through it.
This, in turn, enables the now heated fuel to vapourise and combust correctly when it reaches the actual burner.
There are more moving parts on a liquid fuel stove as opposed to gas.
Due to this, although very reliable, it is essential to carry some form of field repair kit if you are relying on your stove to function effectively.
Most of the stoves mentioned below will come with a small parts kit included.
However, it is wise to bolster this with some extra parts such as those included in the MSR expedition service kit.
Periodic maintenance of the stove is required to ensure long term performance.
The MSR expedition service kits will cover most eventualities in the field and are a good item to carry with you.
If looked after, and properly maintained, these stoves should last a lifetime.
Summary
There are many options available when selecting a bushcraft stove.
If you have a good supply of small twigs etc and don’t mind longer boil times, the closest and most environmentally sustainable option is the wood type, such as the Solo Stove, or Honey Stove.
The fact that this fuel is usually free and readily available, further adds to their appeal.
However, if you want or need to go down the fuel route, meths, gas and liquid fuel stoves are all excellent in their own right.
Your choice will depend on the environment you will be in at the time, trip length and of course, personal preference.
Hopefully, this post has outlined the main bushcraft stove options available.
If you feel you would like anything else mentioned, please leave a comment below or use the contact us page and I will do my best to oblige.
